Just Back From: Harbour Island
For this Just Back From, I interviewed a team member of Mindy And More who recently spent four nights at Harbour Island’s Ocean View Club. She has traveled extensively in the Caribbean, including Jamaica, Antigua, and Barbados. This was her first visit to Harbour Island and her third visit to the Bahamas.
How did you reach Harbour Island?
We flew LaGuardia to Miami and Miami to Eleuthera. From there, we took a five-minute cab ride to the harbor, a ten-minute ferry across to Harbour Island, and then a two-minute cab ride to the Ocean View Club. We were expecting it to be a huge hassle, but it was painless and quick.
What was the vibe at the Ocean View?
It was beautifully decorated, and the vibe was laidback and intimate. It manages to be a very casual, toes-in-the-sand experience while also incredibly chic and charming. We visited other nearby hotels, and they seemed more polished and ‘country club’ than the Ocean View. Guests could go behind the bar and make their own drinks; over breakfast each morning we’d chat with the other parties. Within a day or two, we knew most of the staff by name, and it was sad to say goodbye to them.
How was the check-in process?
Check-in was very easy. It was such a small property that there was only one person working the desk when we arrived, but it took no more than five minutes. We reached the hotel at about one in the afternoon, and the room wasn’t quite ready yet. We hung out and had a welcome cocktail on the dining patio, and they were able to seat us for lunch at two. Afterwards, we were shown our rooms.
What was the structure of the hotel like?
Beyond the lobby was a bar and sitting area with a gorgeous backgammon set. Stepping outside, there were two terraces of dining areas with the same kind of decor—exposed wood, lush foliage, and the occasional musical instrument (think brass tuba hanging from the chandelier). Staircases on each side take guests down to the rooms and beach. Several rooms are built into the main property itself, tucked under the patio, with their own lounge chairs. The other rooms are cottage-style and situated in front of the main property, not even ten feet from the sand.
How was the hotel’s decor?
The Ocean View’s decor makes it stand out from other hotels to me. It is eclectic yet shabby chic, very intimate—with the lobby feeling more like a living room. Even with this informality, it is still beautiful. Dark oak furniture, larger-than-life portraits, intricate tile work, shelves replete with books. The game sets themselves, chess and backgammon, felt sophisticated and vintage. Wilderness and beach motifs abound.
What kind of room were you in?
We were in a terrace suite. Like the lobby, it was beautifully decorated, with two green canopy beds—one king, the other a daybed—bookshelves, tile work, paintings. It was arranged uniquely: one section was the king bed and closets, and beyond that was a room with a daybed, shower, two vanity sinks, and a closed-off bathroom. This second space could be partitioned by folding wooden doors.
Was there anything you didn’t like about the room?
The only aspects of the room I would change are so small they are barely worth mentioning: lighting and amenities. Our room had two windows, both facing the front. To change clothes or shower, we would have to close the inside shutters, as anyone walking by had a view into the room. Without the sunlight coming through, it was pretty dark, despite numerous lamps and overheads.
In regard to amenities, I am a big believer in hotel rooms having a mini fridge, especially at a place like the Ocean View where meals are available only during particular hours. I want to be able to keep leftovers/some snack options handy, just in case I get hungry when the restaurants are not open. The hotel room also didn’t have a TV, which wasn’t an issue for us (we were down to unplug), but could be an annoyance for families with children/teenagers.
What was the beach like?
The Ocean View Club sits right on the most beautiful beach I’d ever seen. It is called a ‘pink sand’ beach–the reason for the name becoming especially evident around sunset. The sand is very soft and fine, great for running on. Another great attribute of the beach, or at least the Ocean View’s section of it, was how empty it was. We didn’t need to fight for loungers or wake up early to reserve one, nor were there hundreds of chairs piled on top of each other.
What were the other guests like?
The other guests were primarily couples or couples with young babies. There also seemed to be a few groups of friends—a couple of friend groups—all 30+. We were friendly with several of the other guests. We would find us all at the same restaurants for dinner and on the same activity schedule. It also seems that the property is often rented out in its entirety for weddings.
How was the service?
Nearly every staff member at the Ocean View was lovely—talkative, friendly, and helpful. The hotel definitely runs on ‘island time.’ That cannot be emphasized enough. This resort, or maybe the Caribbean more generally, is not for those looking for Aman-level service and New York speeds.
What did you think of the Other Side?
The Other Side is a sister property to the Ocean View Club located back on Eleuthera. It has a pool as well as several tents, all beautifully decorated with the same beachy chic feel as the Ocean View. It is worth arranging a visit to the Other Side well in advance, as it tends to book up (and seems to make exceptions only for those with connections). The whole situation with the Other Side is a little opaque. The website doesn’t give any booking details or guidelines for visiting—i.e. stating that Ocean View guests can’t expect to be able to head over anytime. For both Ocean View guests and those staying elsewhere, definitely make a reservation well in advance: 1(242)808-1336
Were there any negatives to staying at Ocean View?
The Ocean View doesn’t have a pool, gym, or tennis/pickle courts like the neighboring Dunmore Hotel does. This wasn’t a big deal for us, but it is something to be aware of. I had inquired about a gym day pass at the Dunmore, but they do not offer them. Running on the beach worked fine, though!
At some points, we found the concierge to be a little reluctant to deal with certain requests while we were there. Everything had to be followed up on multiple times. They were very nice, and this was by no means a big deal, but it was just something we noticed. However, arranging dinner reservations preceding arrival was very easy, and we were grateful to the concierge for handling all of that.
Where did you go for dinner?
On our first night, we went to The Landing, a historic property across from the dock where we arrived. The walls are this rich shade of red and feature several massive portrait paintings. Outside, several tables on a string-lined patio and porch look out at the water. The food overall was delicious, but the goat cheese ravioli we had here was a highlight of the trip.
For our second dinner, we ate at the Ocean View. The food was delicious and primarily locally sourced. We had a birthday in our group, and they brought out the most amazing piece of coconut tart we had ever tasted.
On the third night, we ate at Acquapazza, which I think we would skip in the future. The food was good, but I didn’t love the ambiance (there were two or three groups of hard-partying tourists there). Instead, I wish we had gone to Da Vine, a sushi restaurant close to The Landing. The cuisine is supposed to be decent, plus Beyonce and Taylor Swift have both reportedly eaten there.
We ate at The Dunmore on our final night, walking fifty yards down the beach to get there from the Ocean View. It was crowded, with a more sophisticated vibe than the other restaurants. While waiting to be seated, we hung out in their beautiful, dark oak bar.
The dining room, decorated with vintage B&W photographs and orange details, is divided into two sections: one indoors and beneath a tent. In the future, I’d ask to be seated in the main dining room, but the tent was fine. The service was excellent, and the lobster ravioli and seafood pepper pot were both musts.
What about breakfasts and lunches?
We ate breakfast at the Ocean View every day. The granola tartlet became a staple for us—yogurt, granola, and honey housed in a bowl made of honey dew or pineapple. The continental menu was great, too, if you were looking to save money on breakfasts.
Outside of the hotel, definitely check out Cocoa Coffee House. It is a charming, yellow house near Valentines on the bay side of the island, serving coffee, juices, baked goods, etc. It is an adorable little spot!
For lunch, we went twice to Arthur’s Bakery. They serve the best baked goods in Harbour Island, and their caesar salad was phenomenal—a kind of Caribbean take on the dish, with jalapeno spiced croutons and jerk chicken.
While exploring town, we stumbled across Rooster Tail Bar, a restaurant also at Valentines. Very casual (and even a little divey), this place is perfect for a laidback lunch or sunset cocktail. Their conch fritters are an absolute MUST.
What did you make of the town areas of Harbour Island? How was the shopping?
The town area in Harbour Island is very small. We spent most of our time around Dunmore and Princess Streets, where Arthur’s Bakery and the Piggly Wiggly are. There are great boutiques all over, like The Blue Rooster–check it out for beautiful dresses and fun jewelry.
The Dunmore has two boutiques, with one selling toiletries and medication. I would recommend heading into town if you are looking for those necessities, though. We found them for much cheaper at the Piggly Wiggly.
A favorite shop of ours was Blue Bay Shell Home Decor on Colebrook Street. Locally-owned, Blue Bay Shell sells the most beautiful woven bags made in house, as well as other trinkets and memorabilia. If you’re looking for something to commemorate your time on Harbour Island, definitely purchase it here.
What activities were available?
There is a lot to do on Harbour Island, but you can also do nothing at all. We opted for the latter, spending most of our time lounging on the beach. We did rent a golf cart one day and used it to explore the island, which I highly recommend. It was a ton of fun just to drive around aimlessly, stumbling across some hidden gems (like Cocoa Coffee House!)
Horseback riding, parasailing, and paddle boarding were all offered by third party vendors on the beach. Via a boat charter, guests could also snorkel, visit the pigs at Spanish Wells, or simply explore the coast. We looked into the pig excursions but found the charter options provided by the hotel to be a little pricey, especially for a smaller party. Diving/scuba is also available for those with certifications.
There also seems to be a sizable nightlife on the island. While we didn’t partake, Gustys and the Blue Bar seem to be go-tos. Like everything on Harbour Island, I assume it is fairly laid back—not the pricey, high-end clubbing experience you might get elsewhere.
What would you advise future guests?
One piece of advice I have for potential visitors is to reserve everything ahead of time—reservations, activities, even golf carts. It is a small island and incredibly laid-back, so it is better to just have everything set up before arrival rather than trying to get the wheels in motion while there.
The busiest season is November through April, and it is most crowded during the holidays and March (expect spring breakers!). I would recommend going in April. It didn’t feel overly crowded, and the temperature was perfect—warm but with a cold breeze. It gets insanely hot in the summer, and nearly everything is closed in August.
Would you go back?
I would go back and stay at the Ocean View again, but I would also be open to trying another resort if need be. The highlights for me were the beach, the Ocean View’s informal chicness, and the town itself. Our party kept debating what the town most reminded us of, eventually settling on a scaled-back mix of Martha Vineyard’s Edgartown and Charleston. It was very charming, and I appreciated the fact that it didn’t feel as though we were confined to the bounds of a resort.
And some thoughts of mine on Harbour Island…
I have visited Harbour Island several times over the past twenty years, staying at Coral Sands, The Dunmore Hotel, and the Bahama House. I adore the island, and I put some of my thoughts on accommodations below.
When we first visited, my oldest son was a year old, and we were looking for a nice getaway with easy beach access. I had heard that Coral Sands was a chic yet casual property without the big resort feel. Upon arrival, I was blown away by the beach, with its famous pink sand and gorgeous, clear water. Our suite was beachside with a gorgeous view.
Coral Sands is now a three-star property–not quite as nice as some of the neighboring resorts–but an important note about Harbour Island is that it isn’t your typical luxury beach getaway. Guests go for the charming, laid-back vibe and the beach rather than 11/10 service. If you are looking for something comparable to an Aman or Four Seasons regarding luxury, this may not be the place for you.
On our following trip back, we stayed at Villa Carissa, a Coral Sands villa a three-minute walk from their main property. Villa Carissa is actually still available to rent today–however, it looks just as it did twenty years ago. During that trip, we hired a babysitter to help us out while we were there, and we stayed in touch with her for many years. She was such a testament to the warmth and kindness of the residents of Harbour Island. Everyone you meet is incredibly friendly and wonderful.
On our third visit, we stayed at the newly renovated Dunmore Hotel. It was designed by Amanda Lindroth, a fabulous interior designer who I am very much an admirer of. The rooms were beachy chic, with a lot of rattan, wicker, and tortoise shell with colorful accents. Attached to the Dunmore is a beautiful pool and lounge, and the beach is mere yards away, with umbrellas and pool stands decorated with turquoise and white accents.
Tip– if you like Amanda's work, look out for the opening of the new Dunlin Auberge in South Carolina on the Kiawah River. She was part of the team handling the interior design.
A few years ago, the Dunmore built several three to five bedroom homes on the property available for rent. They were much more updated than the regular rooms at the hotel. From glancing over the website, that still seems to be the case.
I have also rented cottages on the harbor side of the island twice. They were owned by the Dunmore and had a communal pool. The only downside is that you are on the harbor side–not the beachfront–so we would take a ten minute golf ride over to the hotel’s beach.
In recent years it looks as though they’ve built new accommodations–such as the coconut and hilltop cottages–which might be a better bet than those rentals on the harbor side, simply because they are at the main property.
In addition to a pool, the Dunmore has tennis courts, pickleball courts, and a small outdoor gym covered by a veranda (with a peloton, treadmill, and a few weights). I believe they now have an infrared sauna and are putting in a cold plunge. It is also worth noting that there are no golf courses on Harbour Island.
On our last visit there six years ago, we stayed at the newly opened Bahama House by the team at Eleven Experience. It was there that I coined the phrase: The Land of No. It was “no” after “no” at Bahama House: we would ask for mint in a drink, the bartender would decline, and we would later find mint in the fridge. On the way to the beach, they offered my sons hats, explaining it was going to be sunny. Upon check out, we found a charge for the hats on our bill. Little things like that continued to build up, some of it I assume must have been because they had just opened. I should note that after our trip they brought in new management, and in my experience at the Eleven Experience’s Crested Butte property, the service was above and beyond.
That being said, the actual property of the Bahama House is beautifully done, with gorgeous rooms and social spaces. I have heard mixed reviews about some of the food, and it is worth noting that the property is not on the beach but in the middle of town. To reach the beach, you have to take a golf cart. When we stayed there, they did not yet have a designated beach area, but I assume they do now.
All in all, my top pick for accommodation is one of the updated cottages at the Dunmore, as guests are right next to the beach with access to a pool, tennis courts, and gym. That being said, it is hard to go wrong in a place as beautiful as Harbour Island. If you are searching for a laidback but charming vacation on one of the most breathtaking beaches in the world, look no further.